Let’s talk grain orientation
Grain orientation is the debate of ages in the handle community. There are a lot of opinions out there. I want to think that many of the views are provided by two groups of people, those who use, and those who study. Now… some of you may already tell which school of thought I tend to lean into. I approach most things with practicality, and while I strive for perfection in my products, I know that this can clash with getting the job done.
On my website, you will find two grades, 1 and 2. Each grade is separated by one quality - grain orientation. What is referred to as grain is the tree's growth rings. Every year the tree grows, a ring is added. If a tree grows slowly, the rings are close together; if it grows fast, they are far apart. The grain is oriented differently depending on how it's sawn by the lumber mill and where the lumber marking template is placed on the board at our shop. Flat-sawn or plain-sawn lumber is the most common type of sawing.
Efficiency and reduction of waste is vital. A grade 1 handle costs grievously higher than a grade 2 due to the tree-growing pattern. To get grade 1 handles, we must use the center of the board, often leaving the sides of the board too small to get grade 2 handles from and becoming scrap wood. If the same board is cut for number 2, two grade 2 handles can be cut from the same board length. Lumber is costly, which is the main reason for high prices on grade 1 and low prices on grade 2. We can price grade 2 lower not because it's a "bad" handle but simply because of material cost and waste.
Our grade 1 handles are made from the center of the board. When used on an axe handle, this part of the lumber will produce straight grain or parallel grain. This just means that the growth rings are running lengthwise and parallel down the length of the handle. A grade 2 handle has growth rings that do not run parallel to the handle. The degree to which the rings are off can range from just out of parallel to completely perpendicular on the handle. The theory is that a handle with straight/parallel grain will be stronger and less likely to break when swung because the wood rings are aligned with the tool's impact.
While this may be true, we should ask, "How much less likely to break?". Is it significant enough of a difference to matter? I do not have a quantitative figure to add here that states precisely to what degree a grade 1 handle is stronger than a grade 2. Unfortunately, this would be nearly impossible to prove since wood is a natural material. At the end of the day, wood is wood. It cannot be guaranteed, unlike a material such as steel, which is homogenous and chemically analyzed to ensure all elements are tolerable for its alloy. A grade 1 handle can break after the first few swings, and a grade 2 can last years; visa versa. It differs from piece to piece. Don't believe me? Watch us prove it in this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nqUU52xH93A
From the first-hand experience and feedback I've gained from running our parent company, Hoffman Blacksmithing, I have seen grade 1 handles break on the first swing. A flawless grade 1 piece of wood can break at random. A flawed grain 2 lasts thousands of swings. To be clear, I am not trying to convince you that a grade 2 handle is more robust than a grade 1 or even equally strong. It may not be as important as some believe it to be. Take it from the old loggers; grain orientation didn't matter to them in this vintage catalog photo:
So, we know that grain orientation does matter in many applications and that grade 1 is the premium choice, but is there ever a situation where it could be more necessary? If your handle is long, it is. The longer your handle, the faster your axe or tool head moves, the more velocity, the more significant the impact, and the more shock goes through the handle. Along with this fact, axes and tool heads placed on longer handles are typically heavier, contributing to more shock in the handle. If your handle is shorter, at a certain point, there won't be enough force being delivered to it for grain orientation to be an attribute of the handle breaking. Other factors that would significantly impact your handle breaking would be cracks, knots, and bark inclusions.
Overall, grade 1 handles, on average, are more robust than grade 2 handles, so we only put grade 1 handles on Hoffman Blacksmithing axes. For most restoration projects, however, a grade 2 might be the best choice for you, especially if price is a concern. At the end of the day, you are risking a handle breaking no matter what grade it is. I hope this article and my lived testimony provided some education about grain orientation and can ease your mind when choosing an axe handle.